Fiberglass
I bought my fiberglass from Aircraft spruce and ordered mostly 5.89 oz E glass for around $5 a yard. This was 60 inch wide stuff which let me do the deck without lapping layers. 4 yards for the bottom, 3 for the top. I also got some S glass for the bottom. I spent around $100 on fiberglass.
Epoxy
Epoxy is expensive and toxic stuff. There are a number of kinds out there, most vary in the hardner used, while the base resin is somewhat more universal. I went through Resin Research which has a very clear epoxy that is mixed 2:1 and has a good working pot life (the slow cure kind they sell) of 40 minutes. It was about $150 for a 3 gallon kit which I consider barely enough. You also might want to track down some additives like barrier additives, or pigments (check out west marine).
Graphics
I used Createx airbrush paints, and standard arthouse black acrylic paint for the top graphics (about $30) I also had to buy an airbrush ($20). The cost $10 a pound and I have lots left over (1 pound green, 1 copper). The fabric was pretty expensive at $10 a yard ($30 total).
Microballoon
I bought mine locally, but you can get it cheaper through mailorder. 1 pound is about 1 gallon in volume. 2 pounds should be plenty ($6-7 per pound).
Finboxes
I bought Chinook finboxes from a local windsurfing shop. Both the 10 and 8 inch boxes were between $8 and $9.
sureform - Very handy rasping tool $7
Hotwire - I made this myself, you can use special wire made for hot wire cutters, or just safety wire. I made a frame from 1x2s and then hooked it up to my car battery.
Stand - You want something padded with foam (pipe insulation is what I used) and at a good working height and as stable and sturdy as possible. It is also handy to have a configuration that will let you place it 'in' the frame sideways.
Tubing - Long enough and bendy enough for your cockpit rim. Flexible garden hose works well, a shiny surface is important.
Tools for hollowing out
Sander - A disc sander would be ideal, with a good foam rubber backing. I didn't have one, but used a standard hand sander that had an orbital motion option.
Router - Very very handy for cutting out the finbox holes. Grinder - quick clean up of epoxy screwups - I used a Makita. Be careful it works very fast.
Brushes, cups, squeegees, mixing sticks - Have lots of these on hand for working with the resin. I used just clear plastic party cups instead of the more expensive pre marked ones, and just drew on marks with a perm marker. Get the hard plastic squeegees from a fiberglass place (in a pinch the Bondo ones work). Most paint stores will give you free mixing sticks. For brushes (gloss coat) be careful of ones where hairs fall out of the brush.
Respirator, gloves, tyvek suit - Don't skimp on the safety equipment. Get a good respirator with a dust prefilter. Even though EPS is non-toxic, getting a lot of foam dust in your lungs is bad. I had used just a cheap dust mask that didn't work well and got very sick as a result (it clogged up my lungs and let an infection set in). Get a whole box of gloves, you will need them. Tyvek paint suits used by autobody shops will help keep epoxy off you. Also prepare for most things around you to get epoxy on them when you are doing the layup.
Foam (outfitting) - Minicell foam for seat, and thigh pads.
Aircraft Spruce Mail order - lots of goodies for composite work and safety equipment.
Resin Research Epoxy (2000/2100)
PO Box 033182 Indialantic, FL 32903 (407) 779 2369
Island Waveskis - fins
Wave Master waveskis - fins